Gabardine: Burberry’s Gift to Explorers
The Draper’s Innovation
Thomas Burberry was not a chemist or textile engineer but a practical clothier who understood what his customers needed. Working in Basingstoke, he served farmers, gamekeepers, and country sportsmen—people who spent their days outdoors in English weather, which is to say frequently wet weather. The available options dissatisfied him: rubberised mackintoshes that trapped perspiration and grew unbearably hot during exertion; waxed cotton that stiffened in cold and required constant re-treatment; or simply accepting that outdoor clothing would eventually soak through.
Burberry’s insight was that water resistance could be achieved through weave rather than coating. If the yarns themselves were treated before weaving, and if the weave were tight enough, water would bead on the surface rather than penetrating the fabric. The cloth would remain breathable because no impermeable layer blocked air circulation—only the tight interlocking of treated threads.
He developed a process of treating Egyptian cotton yarn with lanolin before spinning it tightly and weaving it into a dense twill. The resulting fabric—which he named “gabardine” and trademarked in 1888—combined properties that had previously seemed mutually exclusive. It resisted rain. It breathed during activity. It was lighter than the alternatives. And it was tough enough for serious outdoor use.
The name itself came from a Middle English term for a loose cloak or protective outer garment—gaberdine in Shakespearean usage. Burberry’s appropriation of the word reflected his ambition: this fabric would become synonymous with protection from the elements.
The Weave That Makes the Difference
Gabardine’s performance derives from its specific construction—a tightly woven twill that distinguishes it from other cotton fabrics.
The Twill Structure
Like cotton drill, gabardine employs a twill weave, creating the characteristic diagonal ribbing visible on the fabric surface. However, gabardine’s twill is steeper—typically a 2×2 or 3×1 construction that creates a more pronounced diagonal than drill’s gentler angle. This steeper twill contributes to gabardine’s distinctive appearance: a sharper, more refined surface texture that reads as more formal than drill’s workwear aesthetic.
The weave is also tighter. Where drill balances breathability with durability, gabardine prioritises density. The threads pack more closely, leaving fewer gaps for water to penetrate. This density is what provides gabardine’s water resistance without requiring any coating or treatment of the finished fabric.
The Yarn Treatment
Burberry’s original process treated the cotton yarn before weaving—a crucial distinction from fabrics that are treated after construction. Pre-treatment allows the protective properties to be woven into the fabric’s structure rather than applied to its surface. Surface treatments can wear off; structural treatment persists.
The original lanolin treatment has been supplemented or replaced in modern gabardines by various water-resistant finishes, but the principle remains: treat the yarn, weave it tight, and the fabric itself becomes the barrier.
The Surface Characteristics
Gabardine presents a smoother surface than drill. The tight weave and steep twill create a refined appearance—almost polished, especially in quality examples. This smoothness makes gabardine more formal than drill while remaining appropriate for outdoor use. It occupies a middle position between workwear ruggedness and suiting refinement.
The smooth surface also sheds water more effectively. Droplets bead and roll off rather than being absorbed by surface fibres. This is gabardine’s signature visual confirmation: watch rain hit the fabric and witness it pearling rather than penetrating.
From Poles to Savannas
Gabardine’s reputation was made not in gentlemen’s shops but in the most extreme environments on earth. The expeditions that proved the fabric’s capabilities read like a roll call of exploration’s heroic age.
The Antarctic Conquests
Ernest Shackleton’s Nimrod expedition (1907-1909) and subsequent Endurance expedition (1914-1917) both relied on Burberry gabardine. The conditions were almost unimaginably harsh—temperatures dropping below -40°C, driving snow, the constant assault of polar wind. Gabardine outperformed every alternative, remaining supple when other fabrics stiffened, shedding snow that would have soaked conventional cotton.
Roald Amundsen, the Norwegian who became the first to reach the South Pole in 1911, chose Burberry gabardine for his successful expedition. His rival Robert Falcon Scott, whose expedition ended in tragedy, also wore Burberry. The fabric did not fail Scott; other factors did. But both expeditions testified to gabardine’s capacity for extreme conditions.
The Aviation Pioneers
As exploration moved from surface to air, gabardine followed. Alcock and Brown’s first non-stop transatlantic flight in 1919 was made in Burberry gabardine flying suits. The open cockpits of early aircraft exposed pilots to temperature extremes, precipitation, and sustained wind—conditions that demanded protection without bulk. Gabardine provided it.
The fabric’s combination of weather resistance, breathability, and relative lightness made it ideal for aviation. Pilots needed to remain mobile while protected; gabardine permitted both.
The Safari Translation
The African safari presented conditions less extreme than Antarctic ice or Atlantic altitude but demanding in their own way. Variable weather, dust exposure, the need for formal appearance in lodge contexts alongside practical performance in the bush—gabardine addressed this combination naturally.
Safari outfitters recognised gabardine’s potential early. The fabric offered the structure that safari jackets required while providing weather protection that cotton drill lacked. Its refined surface suited the social dimensions of safari—the lodge dinners, the photographed moments—while its proven expedition credentials ensured functional adequacy.
The connection to famous explorers enhanced gabardine’s appeal. Wearing gabardine meant wearing the fabric of Shackleton and Amundsen; it connected the safari traveller to a tradition of serious expedition dress that elevated the African journey from mere tourism to genuine adventure.
Gabardine Versus Drill
Both gabardine and cotton drill are twill-woven cotton fabrics suitable for safari wear. Understanding their differences helps in selecting between them.
Density and Weight
Gabardine is typically denser than drill of equivalent weight. The tighter weave packs more fibre into less space, producing a fabric that feels more substantial despite similar weight specifications. This density provides gabardine’s water resistance but marginally reduces breathability compared to drill’s looser construction.
Surface and Formality
Gabardine’s smoother surface reads as more refined than drill’s textured appearance. A gabardine safari jacket suits lodge dinner contexts more naturally than a drill equivalent; it approaches (without quite reaching) suiting formality. For travellers who want their safari jacket to serve social as well as field purposes, gabardine offers this versatility.
Weather Resistance
Gabardine offers genuine water resistance that drill cannot match. Light rain beads on gabardine’s surface and can be shaken off; the same rain would begin penetrating drill almost immediately. This difference matters for unpredictable weather—the sudden shower that catches you between vehicle and lodge.
Neither fabric is waterproof in any serious sense. Sustained rain overwhelms gabardine as it does drill. But for the brief exposures that safari travel typically involves, gabardine provides meaningfully better protection.
Character and Patina
Drill develops more pronounced patina than gabardine. The looser weave shows wear more visibly; the textured surface takes on character that records its history. Gabardine ages more subtly—it softens and develops quiet distinction, but without drill’s dramatic evidence of experience.
For travellers who value the visible history of well-worn kit, drill may appeal more. For those who prefer a consistently refined appearance that evolves slowly, gabardine serves better.
When to Choose Each
Choose gabardine when:
- Social contexts matter alongside field use
- Light weather resistance provides value
- A refined, somewhat formal appearance is preferred
- The jacket will serve multiple purposes beyond pure safari
Choose drill when:
- Traditional safari character is paramount
- Maximum breathability matters
- Visible patina development is valued
- Budget considerations apply (drill is typically less expensive)
Quality Markers in Gabardine
Not all gabardine is equal. Identifying quality helps ensure purchases that perform.
The Hand Test
Quality gabardine feels dense but not stiff—substantial without cardboard rigidity. It should have slight resilience, pressing back gently against your fingers. Cheap gabardine often feels thin, papery, or excessively stiff from over-starching.
The Surface Test
Examine the diagonal weave closely. Quality gabardine shows consistent, sharp twill lines without irregularities or loose threads. The surface should appear smooth and somewhat lustrous—not shiny, but with the subtle sheen of tightly woven quality cotton.
The Water Test
Place a few drops of water on the fabric and observe. Quality gabardine causes water to bead clearly, remaining on the surface as distinct droplets. Inferior gabardine absorbs water immediately or allows it to spread rather than beading.
The Drape Test
Quality gabardine drapes smoothly without bunching or standing awkwardly. It should follow curves gracefully while maintaining enough body to hold structured silhouettes. Poor gabardine may be too limp or too rigid, failing either the drape or structure requirement.
Care and Maintenance
Gabardine’s density and treatment affect care requirements.
Cleaning
Gabardine garments benefit from dry cleaning, which preserves their water-resistant properties better than home washing. The solvents used in dry cleaning do not strip treatments the way water and detergent might.
If home washing is necessary, use cold water and gentle detergent. Avoid wringing or twisting, which can distort the tight weave. Line dry away from direct heat; tumble drying can damage the finish.
Re-proofing
Gabardine’s water resistance diminishes over time as treatments wear away. Re-proofing sprays can restore some protection, though they never fully replicate original performance. Apply re-proofing after cleaning, following product instructions.
Storage
Hang gabardine garments on broad-shouldered hangers that support the garment’s shape. Avoid folding for extended periods, which can set creases in the dense fabric. Store in breathable garment bags, not plastic, and protect from moths as with all natural fibres.
Brushing
Regular brushing with a soft clothes brush removes surface dust and maintains appearance. Brush in the direction of the twill diagonal, working from shoulder to hem. This simple maintenance extends intervals between professional cleaning.
The Burberry Legacy
Burberry as a brand has evolved far beyond its gabardine origins—the trench coats and check patterns now overshadow the technical innovation that built the company. But the fabric remains, produced by mills worldwide, serving purposes that Thomas Burberry could not have imagined.
For safari, gabardine represents a particular choice: the preference for refinement over rusticity, for technical performance over traditional character, for a fabric proven in the most extreme conditions humanity has faced. The person who selects gabardine selects not just a cloth but a lineage—connection to expeditions that tested human limits and to a Victorian draper who solved problems through observation and ingenuity.
This is what the great fabrics offer: not merely function but meaning, not merely cloth but history. Gabardine carries its history visibly—in the steep twill that defines its construction, in the water that beads on its surface, in the smooth refinement that distinguishes it from humbler alternatives. Understanding that history enriches the wearing; knowing what gabardine has survived helps appreciate what it offers now, in the rather less extreme conditions of the African bush.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is gabardine fabric? Gabardine is a tightly woven twill fabric, originally developed by Thomas Burberry in 1879. It is distinguished by its steep diagonal weave, smooth surface, and water-resistant properties achieved through dense construction and yarn treatment rather than surface coatings. It can be made from cotton, wool, or synthetic fibres.
How is gabardine different from cotton drill? Gabardine is woven more tightly than drill, with a steeper twill angle that creates a smoother, more refined surface. This density provides water resistance that drill lacks. Gabardine appears more formal and ages more subtly; drill has a more rugged aesthetic and develops more pronounced patina.
Is gabardine waterproof? No—gabardine is water-resistant, not waterproof. Light rain beads on the surface and can be shaken off, but sustained rain will eventually penetrate. For serious wet conditions, a technical rain layer is necessary. Gabardine provides protection against brief showers and light precipitation.
Why is gabardine associated with explorers? Thomas Burberry specifically designed gabardine for outdoor use, and the fabric was adopted by the most famous expeditions of the early twentieth century. Shackleton, Amundsen, and Scott all wore Burberry gabardine in Antarctica; Alcock and Brown wore it crossing the Atlantic. These associations established gabardine’s reputation for extreme-condition performance.
Is gabardine good for safari jackets? Yes—gabardine provides the structure safari jackets require while offering weather resistance that cotton drill lacks. Its refined surface suits lodge contexts as well as field use, making gabardine jackets versatile for safari’s range of social and practical demands.
How do I care for gabardine? Dry cleaning is preferred to preserve water-resistant properties. If washing at home, use cold water and gentle detergent; line dry. Brush regularly with a soft clothes brush. Re-proof periodically with appropriate spray treatments. Store on broad-shouldered hangers in breathable garment bags.
What weight gabardine is best for safari? Medium-weight gabardine (8-10 oz/yard) provides the best balance of structure and comfort for safari applications. Lighter weights may lack body for structured jackets; heavier weights may be too warm for tropical conditions.
Can gabardine be made from wool? Yes—gabardine refers to the weave construction, not the fibre content. Wool gabardine offers the weave’s density and water resistance combined with wool’s temperature-regulating properties. Tropical wool gabardine is an excellent, if expensive, option for safari jacketing.
